Challenging was the word I sought, but I was inspired to be here as I looked around at the white mountain tops like sugar icing across the valley I had just left and the sparkle of the countless snow crystals where the sun shone on the slope ahead. The mountains west of Keswick were now in sight across the white expanse around Calfhow Pike; I was getting higher but the ridge still seemed an age away…

Looking back to Clough Head and Blencathra from the snow slope

I had set out from High Row near Dockray in the north eastern corner of the Lake District, for Great Dodd which along with Clough Head marks the northern end of the Helvellyn Range. The route – for anyone who cares to repeat it – lay along the track known as the Old Coach Road which links Dockray with St Johns in the Vale, for 4km or two and a quarter miles before branching left up a vague boggy path which today was hidden under the snow. It is signposted to Calfhow Pike and follows the river of Mosedale Beck though after my encounters with several lesser streams beneath the snow I opted instead to head straight up the slope on the left to the cairn on Randerside.

Looking east from just below the summit with the Pennines on the horizon. Ullwater lies beneath the mist in the valley below

A wintry view of skiddaw from near the summit of Great Dodd

From here I would follow the wide ridge to the summit of Great Dodd at 856m or 2809 feet; a variation on my original plan to first ascend Clough Head (726m/2382ft) from the highest point of the track and follow the ridge around but it is January and it gets dark early here and the effort of walking in 40-60 cm of snow tends to slow the pace somewhat.

The view from the summit is always worth coming up for and today it was more than ample reward for the extra effort walking through the snow. Skiddaw and Blencathra to the North took on an alpine quality in their snowy garb while in the other direction the wide ridge – itself one of Lakeland’s great walks – stretched away towards the icy peak of Helvellyn in the South. A thin haze had spread into the west heralding more snow to come and this gave the western peaks a monochrome gloomy air but east across the Eden Valley a temperature inversion obscured the lowlands beneath a layer of cloud and fog and the eye was drawn to the Pennines around Cross Fell – their highest point – which seemed to float on the mist like distant islands on a calm sea.

Between the Cumbrian Fells and the Pennines a temperature inversion covers the Eden Valley with mist

The summit cairn on Great Dodd was a cold and lonely place today with Skiddaw beyond

South from the summit along the ridge to Fairfield Catstycam and Helvellyn

I admired the view all around until the cold began to penetrate my jacket and it was time to go. For a shorter way back I followed the tracks north east down the wide ridge back to join the Old Coach Road much nearer to its start point and where it is signposted for Great Dodd.

Pete Buckley  Jan 2012

Jungfraujoch station is marketed as the “Top of Europe” by Jungfraubahn who operate the line and is the highest main line railway station in Europe. The platform lies at an altitude of 11333 feet or 3454m above sea level and is reached by a fascinating tunnel through the solid rock of the Eiger.

The station reminds one of an underground town with shops and restaurants for those who have any money left after buying their ticket and for those who don’t – provides access to the wonderful winter world of the high plateau at the top of the Aletsch Glacier between the 4000m peaks of the Monch and the Jungfrau. The sublime mountain views are free.

The last time I’d been here a blizzard had raged across the high mountains and my walk to the Monchsjoch Hut had become something of an adventure in arctic conditions. Even the huskies that give dogsled rides to the tourists had all been indoors. Today though as I emerged from the tunnel  the conditions were a little more benign than last september – the sun shone from a deep blue sky, warming the snowy plateau to a balmy three degrees above freezing and the wind was presumably battering some poor hiker in the Scottish Highlands or some other far off place.

The station had been busy today so I’d made good my escape even resisting the temptation of the Indian restaurant – these are a rarity not to be passed up in Switzerland – and even though the 26 franc price tag for my favorite dish did not put me off the queue did!

Looking down to Kleine Scheidegg and Interlaken from the Jungraujoch Ice Plateau

From the Sphinx Observatory hikers can be seen following the pisted trail to the Monchsjoch Hut which is just around the corner in the gap

The gently rising trail to the Monchsjoch Hut lies for just over a mile across a permanently snow covered glacier and is pisted in the same way as a ski run as well as being marked by poles. The track is crevasse free but not so the surrounding glacier so it is important to stay on the path if you are not roped up and remember that you are walking on ice and not solid rock. These ice fields are amazingly up to 800 metres thick in places and feed the Aletschgletscher – the longest glacier in the Alps at 22 km or nearly 14 miles.

Today I passed several people making their way to the hut who appeared to be struggling. It was the snails pace and zombie like expressions that told me who had come straight up from the lowlands without being in the hills recently. I’d been walking to around 2500m the day before and was still short of breath – these people clearly hadn’t ventured above Interlaken until today. The town’s at about 500m while the Jungfraujoch is 3450m and the Monchsjoch 3650m – a height that passenger aircraft are required to be pressurised or carry breathing oxygen – a little acclimatisation is certainly desirable before coming up here, if you want to enjoy it that is! I watched as one group turned back apparently exhausted for the station.

The peak of the Jungfrau (4158m) seen looking back from the early part of the trail

The views here are simply stunning with the Aletsch Glacier leading the eye southwards between rugged slopes towards the distant Pennine Alps across the unseen Rhone Valley while the Jungfrau towers beyond the area of the unseen station in steep rocky steps above the snowfields.

Looking down the Aletschgletscher or Aletsch Glacier which is the longest in the Alps

Approaching the Monchsjochhutte or Monchsjoch Hut which sits at 3650m - pretty much 12000 feet above sea level just east of the Monch (4099m)

The walk seemed shorter than I remembered – probably because of the weather – and the hut was soon in sight perched just beyond the lower end of the South East ridge of the Monch. That is the normal route to its 4099m summit but though not far, it is not without difficulty and a guide is to be recommended for less proficient climbers such as the author. The view opened out from the hut and immediately on its far side was a steep drop to a wide plateau of snow with distant blue mountains rising beyond the multi peaked top of the Wetterhorn itself at the same level as the hut. To the right and closeby rose the icy crest of the Fieschhorn though the Eiger was hidden behind the eastern slope of the Monch.

Beyond the hut one is almost level with the top of the Wetterhorn (3704m) with the Schreckhorn (4078m) on the far right

The shapely peak of the Gross Fiescherhorn (4049m) rises immediately beyond the hut

I bought a drink in the hut – tea in a bowl which is how they serve it in the huts – then sat outside in the sun enjoying its warmth and the wonderful high mountain environment around me. People milled around the hut as more struggled up the easy snow ramp leading to it bemoaning the lack of air. How different it was from last september when there had only been 2 people here – myself and the warden of the hut – and the challenge was in finding the route not a place to sit. Amazing views today though.

I made my way back to Jungfraujoch easily enough and having missed out on a curry was sorely tempted by the summer skiing – 33 francs including hire of skis. The run was a gentle easy slope which is about my standard – and a button lift pulled people back up to the start. I decided to save my money though and investigate the Sphinx Observatory and viewpoint – the silver dome I had seen about 400 feet above on a rocky tower which is accessed by a lift from the station. The lift is free and rises at terrific speed in a rocky shaft – actually 6.3 metres per second which is fast for a lift – to the observatory.

The exit at the top of the lift is into a large room with glass walls and the view from here – though at 3570m slightly lower than the hut – is even more far reaching. A vast drop off close at hand to Interlaken and the Brienzersee – or Lake of Brienz – glittering below the cloud layers 10 000 feet below. Range after range of lower mountains spread out to the West while in the far distance hazy hills marked the Jura and southern Germany’s Black Forest maybe 100 miles away beyond the green Swiss Mittelland. On the other side in great contrast was the Aletsch Glacier leading down from the world of ice immediately below.

The view from the Sphinx Observatory 3570m. Here the Bernese Oberland drops off 3000m or 10000 feet to the lowlands of central Switzerland

Outside the floor is one of those see through vertigo-vision metal ones that add to the excitement of walking above the void below and the whole structure is surrounded by a network of cables which were being used as perches by the ravens. I wondered what these were for then realised they were protection from lightning. Storms are frequent here and this faraday cage would prevent lightning hitting the observatory – or worse – anyone stood out here.

Time to go down and I had a quick look at the Eisplast or Ice Palace and the Ice Plateau both of which which me and Dad had visited when we came up on a family holiday when I was 9. The plateau seemed much smaller than I remembered though the view was still stunning. The Ice Palace was just as cold as I remembered – perhaps -10 degrees being under the glacier – and is full of ice carvings some very intricate. There are similar man made ice caves at Klein Matterhorn above Zermatt and at Mittelallalin at Saas Fee and on the whole I would say that the one at Jungfraujoch is the most extensive and impressive. With that I went to board my train down from this land of ice and snow to the green meadows and trees of summer in the valley below – having missed out on a curry I would have a pizza in Grindelwald sat outside on a terrace in the sun before I walked back up the hill to my hotel.

Pete Buckley January 2012

This was a walk of about 15km or 8.5 miles from Mardale at the end of Haweswater on eastern edge of the Lake District and from the road end I took the right hand path that followed the wall to cross the beck by a small footbridge. This path follows the lonely western shore of Haweswater towards Bampton but I was only going as far as the side valley of Riggindale. It’s a beautiful and isolated spot and the home to golden eagles though I am informed that just one bird returned to the nest this season.

The remote feeling side valley of Riggindale with Kidsty Pike our first objective ahead

Kidsty Pike, the first summit rises prominently ahead from here and the route leaves the main path after Riggindale beck is crossed to climb pretty much straight up the grassy slopes on the left. After a while when the ridge is reached the way becomes more interesting climbing up between rocky knolls and small gullies – preferable to the grass slope which seems endless on a warm day.

Higher up the views to the east began to expand and I walked on a well constructed track which had been improved since I was last here. Kidsty Pike is prominent all the way now and the top is soon reached up a much easier slope. The summit at 780m or 2560ft is a fine belvedere overlooking Haweswater and the lands to the East of Lakeland that extend away to the dark line of the Pennines on the horizon.

Looking to the east from the summit of Kidsty Pike with Riggindale and Haweswater below

From Kidsty Pike my route followed the wide path a short distance westwards and then to the South towards High Street the highest of the so called Far Eastern Fells. This path follows the course of the old Roman Road from which the fell is named. High Street though was not my destination today though it is easy to reach from here – simply follow the wide path until it stops going uphill – nearly a mile from here to the trig point. Instead I turned right on another path at a fork and headed back northwards and downhill; now on the western side of the range. This juncion is at the col known as the Straits of Riggindale and care must be exercised in poor visibility as it is easy to end up walking in completely the wrong direction when the landmarks are not visible so while you would stay on a good path you could be faced with a much longer walk home than expexcted!

Looking back to Kidsty Pike from the path to the Straits of Riggindale with the Pennines on the horizon

Today though the autumn sun shone from a sky of pale blue and the surrounding hills appeared in stark clarity. Strangely though despite the warmth of the day, the ground was partly frozen out of the sun and the shaded areas sparkled with frost.

I followed the path northwards and slightly downhill for a short distance before making a detour to the interesting summit of the Knott (739m/2425ft) just off to the left. This made a fine viewpoint and an ideal place to have lunch with the Easten Fells of Lakeland as a fine backdrop.

My glorious lunchtime view of the Eastern Fells of Lakeland from the Knott

The next part of the route follows the wall to Rest Dodd on the left

Onwards then and the next summit of Rest Dodd (696m/2284ft) lay down the far side of the Knott and across the main path where people could be seen heading down towards Patterdale. The fell rose ahead about a mile away and slightly below my present level and it was just a case of following the stone wall to reach it. The terrain beyond the main path though proved slightly tougher and it was a long mile – a steep descent of a half frozen bog followed by a warm climb to the rounded summit of Rest Dodd where I stood today for the first time.

The view from Rest Dodd with Helvellyn on the left through to Blencathra on the right

A look at the time told me that this was as far as I was going today. The next hill on the ridge – The Nab – would wait for another day. The unseasonable weather (in the Lake District if it’s not raining you could call it unseasonable) belied the fact that it was November and it would be dark soon. I still had to re cross the High Street ridge and descend to Mardale 2000 feet down its far side. Rest Dodd in the meantime was a good place for a rest before beginning my return trip and this I duly did. The ridge on from here looks tempting – along to Angletarn Pikes and on down to Patterdale would be a nice walk but I’d be spending the night there if I did it today!

I’d noticed a variation in my return route though – a faint path leads from the grassy depression I had crossed on the way here much further to the left and up the ridge directly to Rampsgill Head on the main ridge. Opting for this, it turned out a better walk than following the wall being drier for one and with some beautiful views back towards the Helvellyn area. Skirting the edge of the crags which fell to my left I gained the top of Rampsgill Head – the highest point of my route at 792m or 2598ft – to cross the path between High Street and High Raise and make a beeline for Kidsty Pike ahead from where I had effectively completed a short circular route.

Looking back from the approach to the last summit of Rampsgill Head

The way now lay back to the valley of Rannerdale and along the shore of Haweswater where I arrived in a chilly evening that reminded me that perhaps it was November after all having retraced my steps made in the warm morning sun.

Pete Buckley  December 2011

Offa’s Dyke itself is an Eighth Century earthwork constructed by Offa – then King of Mercia – to separate the ancient kingdoms of Mercia (England) and Powys (Wales) and the path roughly follows its course from Prestatyn on the North Wales Coast to Chepstow on the Severn Estuary in the South a distance of 177 miles. My walk today would cover a small section of its course from where I was dropped by the A494 Mold to Ruthin road to where we were staying with friends at Bodfari – the northern end of the range.

The first part of my walk was through an area of verdant meadows lit by a pale autumn sun with short woodland sections to add contrast. The land sloped gently away to the East as the path gradually approached the crest of the Clwydian Hills. Directions need not be given here as any fork or junction was clearly marked with an acorn symbol for the Offa’s Dyke Path and an arrow indicating which way the walker should go though it was usually obvious as the main path.

The land slopes away to the valley at the start of the walk

The Vale of Clwyd comes into view as the ridge is reached

Presently after skirting left well before a farm, my route reached the watershed which rewarded me with some fine views across the Vale of Clwyd – the broad valley to the West where are sutuated the small towns of Ruthin and Denbigh. At the ridge I turned right and followed the trail past a small forest and steeply up to the first summit of the day – Foel Fenlli. At 511 metres or 1677 feet the height is modest but the views are wonderful with the forests surrounding Moel Famau ahead glowing with autumn colours.

Looking west across Denbighshire from the summit of Foel Fenlli

The route lies ahead over Moel Famau

The next stage of the route lay to Moel Famau via the car park at Bwlch Penbarras – a reguar cycling destination from years before though I used to have it to myself. Not today though – the mild sunny weather had brought everyone out of the woodwork and it seemed they were all here today. I had had Foel Fenlli to myself but Moel Famau was like Blackpool Beach in the Summer Holidays. I climbed it quickly and admired the view from the jubilee tower on the summit – for five minutes – then continued northwards. At 554m (1818ft) this was the highpoint of the route today so the rest should be mainly downhill – I thought…

The crowds were soon left behind and once again I had the hills to myself as I traversed the heathery expanse between Moel Dywyll and Moel Llys y Coed. Here as on the initial stage of my walk I saw only the occasional walker while the open terrain exuded a timeless quality and atmosphere and I was reminded of George Borrow’s account of his journey in the 1850′s described in the book Wild Wales. This place would have changed little since then.

Presently though another car park was approached – that below Moel Arthur which rose impressively ahead. This hill is crowned with an iron age fort and is a popular destination though not so much as Moel Famau.

The climb up to Moel Arthur was a short but steep haul and to visit the summit and the remnants of the fort one must deviate a short distance left (west) of the Offa’s Dyke Path which skirts the side of the hill. The top was far quieter than Moel Famau being occupied by only myself, one other person and a friendly labrador dog who came over to ascertain what I had brought for my lunch. Onwards again and the path led easily downhill to a third and busier car park where there was a choice of routes. Remember I said that it’s hard to get lost on this route? Well I nearly did here – I followed the footpath sign through the gate and had a very pleasant walk in the forest before I realised that whilst this trail was nice enough, it wasn’t the Offa’s Dyke Path and didn’t go to Bodfari. A short detour and I returned to the car park. The path is signposted just after the top gate and it’s the trail on the right that leads off along the upper edge of the woods and not through them.

Beyond Moel Arthur the route slopes gently down through open meadows

Autumn colours below the path on the ascent to Pencloddiau Fort

Looking back along the Offa's Dyke Path to Moel Arthur from the climb to Penycloddiau

Another longer ascent made me check the map that Moel Famau was indeed the highest point of my route but the views looking back from here were some of the best yet with the late sun shining on the golden woods below. The trail leads along the upper border of the forest before emerging on the hilltop at Penycloddiau Fort – another ancient site where the tumulus or burial mound has been restored to resemble its original state – apart from the plaque – but the effect is good in the early evening light.

The tumulus or ancient burial ground at Penycloddiau marks the last hill of my route

From here it really is downhill all the way as the next hill of Moel y Parc is missed out by the Offa’s Trail which descends off to the left before it is reached. At the end of the descent from this hill there was again the potential for getting lost where an unsealed road is met after a gate and stile at the bottom of the hill.

Keeping straight on for a few metres though reveals the acorn sign for the Offa’s Dyke path heading down to the left – a look at the map also revealed that if I had continued with my wrong turning of earlier I would have ended up here by a more circuitous but flatter route. From here to Bodfari was down a farm track and then through open fields with the route being well signposted throughout. In total I had covered about 12 miles or 20km and even arrived back before dark (just) and in time for tea.

Pete Buckley  November 2011

A distant view of Mount Cook (left) from the shores of Lake Pukaki

To follow the post about climbing Mt Ruapehu up on North Island, here’s one about the area around the highest mountain in New Zealand, Mount Cook but I was not brave enough to attempt the ascent!

Situated in the Southern Alps some one hundred miles to the west of Christchurch, Mt Cook – whose Maori name Aoraki means “Cloud Piercer” – rises to 3754m or 12317 feet in a great fang of rock and ice above the Tasman and Hooker glaciers which form New Zealand’s largest ice fields.

The highest peak in NZ seen from Mount Cook Village in the Hooker Valley

Climbing the mountain is a serious undertaking but there is a wide range of walks to be had from Mount Cook Village in the Hooker Valley below the peak on the eastern side of the southern Alps that show off the sublime alpine scenery of the area. Our own far too brief visit was during the winter months so more involved routes such as the climb to Sefton Bivouac were well above the snow line and off limits to unguided walkers.

So it was we opted for the Red Tarns route which leaves Mt Cook Village in a southerly direction before climbing steeply out of the valley to a high sunny shelf far above, where the tarns are to be found at an altitude of 1050m or 3445ft – about the height of Snowdon. The route is easier than Snowdon though as the start point is something like 700m above sea level.

The path there is clear all the way being flat at first leaving the village then a series of steps for the climb out of the valley – over 1200 of them – so it’s a bit like climbing the Empire State Building on a day that the lifts are out of order! The Red Tarns – when you get there – are reedy pools of clear water set in a beautiful landscape with simply stunning views back up the Hooker Valley to Mount Cook and the seventeen other 3000m peaks that make up the highest part of the Southern Alps.

The Red Tarns are located on a sunny shelf just under 3500 feet above sea level with spectacular views of the highest peaks of the Southern Alps

Looking up the Hooker Valley towards Mt Sefton and Mt Cook from a point close to the Red Tarns

The information leaflet and map available from  DOC (Department of Conservation) at the visitor centre says this is a two and a half hour round trip which is about right – and also lists several other easy but rewarding walks that can be done in this fascinating area which is part of the Aoraki Mount Cook National Park.

Submerged treestumps in Blakemere Moss Delamere

The Forest is surrounded by the Cheshire countryside with the villages of Delamere, Hatchmere and Norley being close by. The easiest access is from the A556 Northwich to Chester Road or by train to Delamere Station. Walkers will find a good choice of forest trails to follow and as with most Forestry Commission sites, excellent maps are avilable from the visitor centre. There is an easy but enjoyable circular bike trail of 8 miles through the forest which is suitable for families or alternatively you may follow the Sandstone Trail over the hilltop known as the Old Pale from where there are far reaching views to the mountains of Wales and the Mersey Estuary. Goes to show you don’t always have to go a long way to find the unusual.

The gargantuan mass of Mt Ruapehu rises to the South of Lake Taupo in the centre of New Zealand’s North Island and at 2797m or 9177ft is North Island’s highest mountain. The peak lies within Tongariro National Park which is also home to two other prominent volcanoes – Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro – and rises directly above Whakapapa, the highest township in New Zealand. Talking of superlatives, the Whakapapa Ski Area is also NZ’s largest, in defiance of the pleasantly warm North Island climate, and occupies the northern slopes of the mountain. Just goes to show how high these hills are!

The whole area is of a harsh rugged beauty and one is constantly reminded of its volcanic nature by the cone shaped Ngauruhoe and some very recent looking lava flows. Ruapehu’s last eruption was in 1996 which is hardly far off in history and Whakapapa has a system of warning sirens along with signs instructing you in which direction to run should the mountain suddenly burst into life.

The distant mountains of Tongariro National Park seen across Lake Taupo

Mt Ruapehu seen from the tussock country of Tongariro National Park

My original intention had been to walk part of the Tongariro Crossing – the best known walk of the area – but with the weather as perfect as it could be bearing in mind that it was winter in the southern hemisphere, I looked into the possibility of ascending the peak. A local guide, Paul assured me that it was within my capabilities and we opted to do the Ruapehu Crater Climb which I believe is the highest walking – or tramping as it’s known here – trail in New Zealand.

The highest rocks of Ruapehu are a more technical challenge but this route ascends to a point called the Dome at 2672m (8767ft) overlooking the Crater Lake and even when covered with winter snow was not a technical route though the step kicking can be hard work in the thin air.

Our route lay through the highest part of the Whakapapa ski area at about 2000m which itself is accessed by the gondola from the top of the Bruce Road. Once you’ve avoided the skiers – bear in mind that some of them could be as bad as I am at the sport and have little control over where they are going or who they crash into – a wonderful ascent of Restful Ridge follows which leads up to a false summit before a wide arete is crossed to the Dome overlooking Crater Lake.

Awesome views that extended over much of North Island had accompanied us on the way up with Mt Ngauruhoe the centrepiece and Lake Taupo in the North along with far off Mt Taranaki near New Plymouth on the west coast. Banks of cloud obscured some of this at the top but the Crater Lake below and Ngauruhoe provided a fine backdrop to a stunning location. Paul told me that even in summer it seldom got as good as this – I think the mountain had been in a good mood today.

Mt Ngauruhoe (2287m) seen from Restful Ridge on the ascent of Ruapehu

The view from the top looking roughly eastwards

A bank of cloud obscured the distant views from the summit

There are dodgy characters everywhere, even up here! The Ruapehu Crater Lake with the summit rocks of the peak beyond

So it was that Saturday July 9th saw me up at six, out at seven and in Horton in Ribblesdale before eight which is the usual start point along with several hundred others all seeking some severe punishment.

The peaks themselves are Penyghent, Whernside and Ingleborough and are all situated in the Yorkshire Dales National Park. As for us – We were a team of 5 comprising two Daves, two Pete’s – the author included – and Ben.

The first part of the route is a steep but easy ascent from Horton to Penyghent which is the hill that dominates the village to the East. The path ascends to the right of the summit and reaches the ridge by a stile over the stone wall. Turning up the ridge towards the end of the hill that rises sheer like the prow of a ship up on the left the way gets steeper but finds an easy route past this obstacle on the right. Another steep ascent to a short easy scramble takes you to the top of the ridge where – now in mist – we walked along a wide grassy swathe to the trig point on the summit at 694m or 2277 feet, just over the wall.

Heading down the far side of Penyghent - the first of the Three Peaks

The advantage of the mist was that we couldn’t see how far it was to the next peak of Whernside and we followed the path north along the top of Penyghent before it headed down the steep western slopes to reach a junction 4km or just over a mile and a half from the summit. Here there was some confusion over the route. The crowds of people on a Macmillan organised trek were heading right where a path heads towards Littondale which is the wrong way.

These walkers were – we could see – branching left a short way up this trail by the spectacular chasm of Hull Pot – one of the many pot holes in this area. It is very important you don’t fall down this hole as that would be a bad end to any three peaks experience; it being far better to admire the waterfall from a safe distance. As to the route, none of our maps showed a path that way but there were traces of one on the ground which soon vanished in water and bog on open moorland.

Yes it is a short cut to the Ribblehead path but perhaps it would be better to cut across lower down ie go straight on or initially left at the junction so making the pathless section much shorter. There are nice views and just maybe – after a dry spell – it’s a good walk but we got wet. On the other hand going too far left on the good path from the junction towards Horton just adds distance to an already long day out.

We found a wide easy track in the end though – the Pennine Way heading north with distant Whernside and Ribblehead Viaduct visible ahead and Ingleborough over across the valley. This section is a pleasant easy walk and presently joins the Ribble Way footpath to keep towards Ribblehead. Staying on the Pennine Way takes you too far eastwards.

Far off Whernside seen from the Pennine Way after the boggy section

Ingleborough seen from the same place across the Ribblesdale valley

We had been descending for some time now and after a footbridge by a farm turned left off the Ribble Way (which is signposted straight on) onto a wide track that led down across the valley flats to cross the river Ribble at a more substantial Bridge. You have covered 14km or almost nine miles here.

Just beyond, a short ascent bends around to the right and leads through a farmyard onto the road for Ribblehead. An eye was being kept on the weather as dark skies were looming ahead over the massive Whernside which was definitely much nearer and meteorological observations – ie looking at the cows – revealed no clear consensus either way. Half of the bovine population were lying down while the other half were still happily grazing. I guess this is what they mean by “fifty percent chance of showers” and half way along the road the heavens duly opened – for 5 minutes. That was all the rain we got.

It was dry again when we reached Ribblehead and we had a lunch stop by the road junction just before the viaduct having walked 17km or 10.5 miles. The route to Whernside from here follows an easy path past the Ribblehead Viaduct and on up the valley beyond where just after the railway is crossed and a waterfall is seen on the left the track heads around in that direction climbing steadily. Three of us mafde good progress yup here though 2 of our party – Dave and Pete – had decided to abandon at Whernside and so followed slowly behind.

The waterfall on the way to Whernside after the railway is crossed

Ingleborough seen whilst descending from Whernside

After a small tarn was passed on a grassy plateau, the track climbed steeply up and back around to the left to gain the summit ridge which was followed easily to the top of Whernside – at 736m/2415ft the highest point of Yorkshire and of the 3 Peaks route. With far reaching views all around, we didn’t stop but headed on down the far side to descend some unpleasant stone steps down the steep slope. These finished off the other Dave’s knee and he duly abandoned. We were told it is 19 miles (30km) to this point.

The Ribblehead Viaduct from below the steep part on Whernside

Looking back to Whernside from the boardwalks on the route to Ingleborough

So it was just two – myself and Ben – who set out for the last peak of the day – Ingleborough – which rose massively ahead. It is the middle one in height at 724m or 2375ft but looks the highest from most angles and is the hardest of the route – mainly because you have just climbed the other two. The route heads through a pleasant open landscape with  views across the limestone country down towards Ingleton until a line of boardwalks are reached that traverse some boggy looking ground on the mountain’s lower slopes. Ahead the path could be seen ascending a short but very steep section though we were up this in 10 or 15 minutes. It is steep though!

Here we followed the ridge up to the top of our last peak. We had done it! Now we had to get down back to Horton in Ribbledale 5 miles away. The way back is steep and knee jarring at first but eventually settles into a long steady descent that would be a nice walk if you have not just walked over 20 miles. The way traverses limsstone country and open grassland and is not too boggy. We though just found it hard work after the day’s excesses.

The last peak, on top of Ingleborough

From Ingleborough the last stretch is in view. The path on the right goes to Horton.

After an age the path – always heading back towards Penyghent – descends to fields and turns a corner where Horton comes into view and the end is in sight. The route emerges at the railway station which is good if you arrived by train but for us it was the pub where the team was reunited over pints of Black Sheep.

The total distance of the 3 Peaks walk according to my own measurement using electronic mapping for the route we took was 25.5 miles or 41km though I have heard figures from 24.5 to 27 miles in connection with this route. The usual start point is Horton in Ribblesdale just north of Settle and a good bail out point for those not wishing to continue either before or after Whernside is Ribblehead where there is a railway station and a regular train service back to Horton in Ribblesdale throughout the summer. I’m not sure what the winter service is like but I would not recommend this in winter because of the lack of daylight. In all it is a hard walk because of the distance but one  I ended up enjoying a lot more than I thought I would.

Pete Buckley July 2011  

Penyghent >>> Whernside >>> Ingleborough >>> 41 kilometres  >>> 25.5 miles

Leaving the pleasant harbour area of Whitehaven the route – which is well signposted for the C2C – briefly joins a busy road though you only need to survive this for a couple of hundred yards before a blue sign directs you out of harm’s way down a fenced off alleyway on the left at the back of rows of terraced houses. After the town’s football ground is passed the track bends to the left and climbs a gradual incline in what was once a railway cutting – the C2C route here following its course.

The track now followed a steady easy gradient up between trees and when the trees parted they revealed a view of the rolling green fields of west Cumbria with the clouded hills of the Lake District promising greater things to come. The route out of Whitehaven – considering the steep descent to the town by road – is surprisingly easy.

The first 10 miles is off road but on a surfaced track with easy gradients and just after the route passed the hamlet of Rowrah, it took to tarmac once again along a minor lane before turning right up another lane through Kirkland with views of the Lakeland Fells and the western end of Ennerdale away to the right. It now appeared to be raining on the mountains though so far I had remained dry despite my having been out a whole hour. This is actually not bad going for the Lake District.

Ennerdale and the Western Fells seen from the C2C trail near Rowrah. Ennerdale Water is just visible.

The road was definitely climbing now, towards the green foothills of the Loweswater Fells and the familiar blue signs still pointed out that I was on the C2C – route number 71 – which at least meant that I was not yet lost. To be honest though, these National Cycle Network routes are usually very well signposted and I had only used the map to guage my progress rather than to check directions. A sharp left took me up to 245 metres – the highest point so far – near the conical green hill called Knock Murton before heading down through Lamplugh and a more gradual ascent to where a right hand turn led to a fast run down to Loweswater. Here the rain started.

I couldn’t complain though – this had been a great ride so far and even the road sections had been almost traffic free. I’d seen a few other bikes but not so many – perhaps they’d seen the weather forecast though here it’s not a case of whether it’s going to rain – it’s when.

Dramatic mountains rose above the Vale of Lorton and nearby Crummock Water with Whiteside and Grasmoor being particulary impressive, rising over 2000 feet above to meet the sullen grey rain clouds. Across Loweswater, Mellbreak too was impressive despite being of lesser height. From under a large tree I admired the damp but beautiful views, ate some lunch and then – realising that it was futile to shelter from rain that could easily last out the rest of the day – I set off again towards Keswick. Besides, someone once said that a wet day in the Lakes is better than a sunny day in Manchester and riding through Lorton in the rain was most definitely better than negotiating traffic on Oxford Road – whatever the weather.

Looking across Loweswater to Mellbreak whilst sheltering from the rain.

Riding up to Whinlatter Pass along the lane followed by the C2C. The main road is visible on the bottom left of the photo.

Still following the blue signs for the C2C and route 71, I passed a group of damp looking cyclists and some even damper sheep by a gate and followed the lane steeply up behind some houses in Lower Lorton – another tiny Lakeland hamlet. This was the way to Whinlatter Pass which would be the highest point of my route today though not of the C2C. The B5292 which is the main Whinlatter road is not particularly busy but I didn’t see one car on this minor lane which climbed the pass steeply at first and then at a slightly easier gradient. The rain stopped as well and I was able to enjoy my leisurely (slow) ascent of the pass.

The lane joins the main road for a short distance before I was directed off into the woods on one of the tracks that thread through Whinlatter Forest and as I set off into the woods I saw the group of bikers I’d seen below getting out of a big white van where the track left the road and my greeting of “cheat” got a laugh from the driver but not from the riders!

The part of the route through Whinlatter forest is the best part of this ride but I guess that if you’re on a road bike with loads of kit you can just ride over the road to Braithwaite – it would be a shame though and the off road bit is pretty easy. The blue signs are still in evidence though I was confused for a moment on re emerging onto the road and being directed left – away from Keswick. It just takes you back a little way to the visitor centre where I went to the end past the car park and restaurant – which is excellent and good value if you’ve not brought lunch – to be greeted with views of Skiddaw and a wonderful twisting descent through the trees on another forest track.

The route through Whinlatter Forest is on signposted trails such as this one.

Over the far side of the pass Skiddaw comes into view - well part of it.

The top of Whinlatter is 318 metres or just over 1000 feet above the Irish Sea I’d left earlier and the descent is steep in places but not technical though care is needed if you’re not on a mountain bike designed for such descents. If on the other hand you want more of a challenge then there are excellent mountain bike trails leaving from the visitor centre we just passed. The track ends at another quiet lane near the southern end of Bassenthwaite Lake. Turn right onto this lane otherwise you will not be going to Keswick after all.

Keswick is situated beside the beautiful lake of Derwenwater.

When I reached Braithwaite after just over a mile I rejoined the main Whinlatter road and followed it a short way to the A66 where the route followed the footpath on the right so avoiding probable death by riding on the main highway which is treated as a racetrack by a profusion of cars, motorbikes and trucks.

Keswick is a right turn at the main roundabout a couple of miles further on where a trip down to Derwentwater is obligatory. If you’re going further – towards Greystoke and Penrith – then the next part of the route is good too along a track that follows the course of the old railway to Threlkeld and I’ll post that one here just as soon as I do it.

Pete Buckley June 2011

Looking up the Newlands Valley from Little Town to the peaks of Hindscarth and Robinson

From Little Town the path climbs out of the Newlands Valley to Hause Gate, the col between Catbells and Maiden Moor to the South. Looking over the far (eastern) side of Hause Gate provided a stunning view of Derwentwater below and the Borrowdale Valley extending southwards to the high fells above Seathwaite at its head. These pictures were taken from just off the path a little way above Hause Gate.

Looking across Derwentwater towards Keswick from just above Hause Gate

From the same place looking up the Borrowdale Valley to Castle Crag and the high Fells above Seathwaite

Once the summit plateau of Maiden Moor was reached I left the main path and followed a faint track around its western edge where crags and steep ground overlook the Newlands side of the fell. Beyond the cairn – the highest point is unclear so we’ll assume the cairn is it – the main track was rejoined and followed on towards the next fell of High Spy. Again I left the main track near the top of the rise to visit a prominent subsidiary top on the left known as Blea Crag and once again overlooked the Borrowdale side with views down to Grange and the the mountains above Seathwaite at the valley’s head.

Bull Crag on Maiden Moor looking down to Newlands

The viewpoint of Blea Crag looking towards Borrowdale

The village of Grange in Borrowdale from the Blea Crag viewpoint

Blea Crag is a fine belvedere for Borrowdale but is not the summit of the fell which is seen across the plateau ahead. As I approached the top the weather which so far had threatened from a distance made its move and I sheltered behind the huge pillar-like cairn, the wind blowing the rain and hail past me while I stayed dry. The sun put in another brief appearance but it was short lived and as I reached Dalehead Tarn the rain started up again in earnest. My plan had been to continue over Dale Head and Hindscarth descending the interesting ridge of Scope End to Little Town but this would result in getting wetter than necessary so instead I opted to descend the upper part of the Newlands Valley to my start point which is shorter and much more sheltered.

The summit of High Spy with Dale Head to the Right. The peak beyond the summit is Great Gable

Dale Head seen from the path down the far side of High Spy

Looking down the upper part of the Newlands valley as the rain set in. High Spy is up to the Right

The path follows the right bank (when descending) of the Newlands Beck below the line of crags marking the western edge of High Spy passing a spectacular waterfall and some rough terrain on the way down. Soon afterwards the wide easy track begins by some ancient stone sheepfolds. The route via Dale Head and Hindscarth is described in this post when it didn’t rain though I did encounter winds of up to 90 mph. Lakeland weather is nothing if not varied!

Pete Buckley  June 2011